2-,21-72@)065@, thread@ on the' welt is displaced, from the;needlb@ path. As a result the stitches are curved-@in@ a. manner @ som6what like those- iiiserted by a @eiir-vi@d, needle machine. If no welt is used in the constructibn: of@@ the 5 shoe, the outer surface of the welt 9- uide-acts on the last conforming. Oortion 6f the;upper and the adjustable mounting of the,guide is-;parti6u-, larly useful in regulating,: the distance bet@veen, break Iiiie of the last, To engage@:the@last con-4 :forming portion of the upper surface with'a,.sub-@ stantial area of:.contact so as n6t to@ injure the@ surface of the upper, the welt guide plate has@a@; rotind edged wing 48@ extending towards@ the i5 needle path. The pgsition of the welt @guide,@with re I spect to the upper is such that there is a @suit@ able area of contact between @the upper and:@the lower end of the wing 48 the: welt guid6 @being-.both 20 disposed at an angle with the' line @ of ' fbed horizontally and forwardly,an(i rearwardly@ of@ th(@@machi,ne. B@ loosening the clamp screws, 36@ and 38i @the position of the welt guide may be changed @sufficiently to accommodate :a@ wide range of; shoe styles and sizes, as weil as thicknesses in the ma-terials operated upon. The adjustments of' the. welt guide obtainable includ6 changes @ in pbsition angularly about the clamp screw 38 whicli sets at right angles to the line of feed and angu- 30 larlyab6uttheelam screw--36which@i p s parallel to the axis of the feed roll stud 26'. Alsol a;s a result of the slots through which the clarnp screws pass, the welt guide may be sliifted without changing its angular position in directions both parallel tb the feed roll stud as @well as at right angles thereto. Such changes . in pbsition @ ore useful when sewing welts, as well as when @ no, welt is employed to assist in presenting, the tpper and canvas sheet properly @Lnd with the @desired.@ 40 amount of tensi6n while s-ewing.,. The nature and scbpe. of the invention having been indicated, and a construction embodying the several features of the inverition having been speciftcally described, -what is claimed@ is' 45 1. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and@@ attaching the upper and a welt to the@ marginal portions of an unchanneled sole member ofrelatively flexible material mounted on the treadisur@ face of a last having,'in combination stitch form9 ing devices operating alon the break line formed by the angle between the side and tread surface of the last, means including, upper tehsioning, members on the maemne for imparting a stretch to the upper and sole member at a distaneb 'from 55 the last to ce@use the upper and @ sole member @to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the point of operatiorl of the stitch forming,idevices, and means @for directing a welt towards the point of operation. @of 60 the stitch forming devices at such an angie that the welt is supported by the gaping portion bf the upper against the actioii of the stitch forming de-@ices and is drawn, together with the. upper, around the break line of the last onto the tredd surface of the last by the pull of the stitches.,: 2. A machine for lasting a shbe upper and attaching the iipper and a welt to the margiiiai portion of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread surface of a last. haviilg,,in. @combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along the breai line formed by the angle between the side and tread surfaces of the last, means including upper telisioning members on the mathe bite of the upper tensioning rolls and the@ 10 'th6 break ii-ne@,of. the last:@oiito the, tread-suiface chiiie@ forl iinpartiiig; ai sttetdh;ta the@@ upper 'andsole@ member at: a - distai-ice @ f@oni the last @ to cause@ the @@IpDei. and @ol@@ member @ to gape.at@ the ttead" surfqce@ side of @the break 'line:on@@the@ last, -iii ad-. vance: of' the path: 6fthe@ needle@, and@ means@-fbr' directing. 6, @velt @'tbwa;rds the@ needl6 path, at@ su@ch@ an angle@that th;e-welt is-support@d-b@ the@ten-I -'the sioned upr@er a;gaiiist th@ e@ thrust 'of needl6, and is drawn, together with the'upper,:ar6und-, of @the last by the:pull; of @ th6 stitdhes,,iiiserted: by the.needl6. 3. A m.acliine for lasting a shoe, upper, and:-at-, taching the upper and a-- @@wt@lt@ to the marginal portion of'. an, unchanneled'soli@ niember of @ relativel@ flexible@ material Wbunted ontl@@ tread sur-: face of alast-having in c6iiibinati6n; siitch for-mg de ic6s includin@--@ iie6die operating- along -th iii v e breakline@formedbytheanglebe een-thelside@ @w and itread surfades @of the @l@tst, means inciiidin g@ upper tensioning@members on the;machine for im-@ parting a stretch t6 the uppeitand sole@meniber at a @distance fkbm the Idst to@catse the upper and sole m-ember to gape at the tread surface side@ of @ tlie break@ line on the las@@@iii Advaric6 of the@ path of the rieedle, and means. for-, directing@ a welt t6wards the, point @of 6peration@ of the needle at such an angle that,one edke surface@ of the welt is @tlpported againsi'the@ thrust 6f@ theneedle by the t6nsioned upper and is drawn b@ the: pull of the stitch6s inserted' by the needle atound the @break line @ to a positi6n where, the grain surface on the welt is:bk6ught'int6 coiitact with that portion of the upper whi@h is carried@ around the break line on the last 'and the marginal portion of the upper forms@ an angular flange again t the edge of @ the welt extending f rorn the tread surface 6f the la@t. 4. A machine for lasting @t @hoe upper @ and,attaching the upper axid a welt - tb the @ ma.-ginal pbrtion bf an unchanneled sbl@e@member of -relatively flexible riiaterial moiinted oi-i the.tread @surface of a@ last having in combination, @ stitch forming @ devices including a- needle operating along@ the break@ line:fbrmed by the angle @between tbe,side and tread surfac6s'of,th-e lasti riieaiis: inciiiding upper tensionihg. members on the ma@chine f6r iinparting a@ stretch to the upper and s(jl6 member at aldist.ance frbm the@lg@t@to,@cau,,3e, the u per and sole rnember to gape dt thb@@tread p siirfac6 side' of- the. bteak'line on the last'@in@ advance of the path 6f the'needlei and 2@ guide:f(ir directin@ a welt towards the poiiat of operation of the needle at such a location that the@welt l@s supported ag@Linst the thrust of- the needl6@ in part by the last confbrming surface of the upper and in lia@t by the gaping @portion of the uppi@r and the welt is; drawri by the@ pull of@ the @stit.ches inserted by the@ needle around: the break,@@ line onto @ the tread ' siirf ace of - the last to f orm an angular flange of,the@upp I er, extending from the tread surface on the,16s@iwith the@g:rain @urface on the:,welt in 6ontact with that porti@oil of, the uppek: on the tread surface. 5. A machine for ldsting@ I a shoe @iipper and@"at@taching the up@er and a welt to@ the Margilial' portion of an unchanneled sole @ member @ of @reigtively @flexible matetial mounted; on@ th -e@ tread surf a6e @ of @ a; last having,, in@, combinatibn, stitcli forming devices incluciing a rieedl6 operating@ Aloi-ig:the; break line formed by- the angle' betw een the side and tread 'surfaces of the last, means including upper tensioning members on the machine f6@ impatting a stretch to th@e upper and sble member at a distance from the last to cause 7 0 75

4 2,272,065 the upper and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the path of the needle, and supporting and guiding means against which the last conforming surfaces of the sole meniber and upper 5 are drawn by the upper tensioning members including a guide for directin@ a welt towards the point of operation of the n;edle so located that the welt is drawn by the Pull of the stitches inserted by the needle around the break line of the 10 last onto that portion of the upper supported by the tread surface of the last and the line of stitches exposed on the welt is deflected out, of the path of needle operation. 6. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and at- 15 taching the upper and a welt to the marginal portions of an unchanneled sole nlember of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread surface of a.last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating 20 along a path approximately parallel to the portions of the sole member supported by the tread surface of the last, means including upper tensioning rolls for imparting a stretch to the upper and sole member at a distance from the last tO 25 cause the upper and sole member to .-ape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, and meat-is carried at one end of the roll supporting stud 0 for directing a welt towards the needle path at such an angle that the welt is drawn by the pull of the stitches inserted by the needle around the break line of the last onto the tread surface, together with the upper. .1- J 7. A machine for lastin,a a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the margilial portions of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread surface of a last haviiig, in combination, stitch L) forming devices including a needle operating along a path approximately parallel to the portions of the sole member supported by the tread surface of the last, means including upper tensioning rolls for imparting a stretch to the upper 1 and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upp,er and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the bre-ak line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, and a welt 50 guide secured to one end of the roll supporting stud arranged to direct one edge of a welt into the needle path and with the other ed,ae extending away from the upper tensioning rolls at an acute angle to the side surface of the last. 55 8. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the marginal portions of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread su.,- face of a last having, in combination, stitch C)O forming devices includina a needle operating along a path approxiw-atety parallel to the portions of the sole member supported by the tread surface of the last, means including upper tenr sioning rolls for imparting s. stretch to the uppe 6.5 and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upper and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, a work support, 70 and a welt guide s4ecured to one end of the rol.1 supporting stud arranged to conduct a welt towards the needle path and to act with the work support against the last conforming surfaces of the upper and sole member to resist the pull of the tensioning rolls. . 9. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the marginal portions of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread surface of a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along a path approximately parallel to the portions of the sole member supported by the tread surface of the last, means including upper tensioning rolls for imparting a stretch to the upper and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upper and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, a work support, a disk-like enlargement at the end of the roll supporting stud, a guide on the erilargement arranged to direct a welt towards the needle path aiid to act with the work support against the last conforming surfaces of the upper and sole member to resist the pull of the upper tensioriing rolls, and means for adjusting the guide to change the position of the break line on the last supported by the welt guide with respect to th-, needle path. 10. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the marainal portions of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread surface of a last havirig, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along a path approximately parallel to the portions of the sole member supported by the tread surface of the last, means including udper tensioning rolls for imparting a stretch to -the upper and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upper and s6le member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, a work support and an adjustable guide s6cured to one end of t@e roll supporting stud arranged tb act with the work @upport against the last conforming surfaces of the upp6r and S61e member to resist the pull of the tensioning rolls. 11. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the marginal portions of an unchanneled s t@ ole member of relaively flexible material mounted on tl-ie tread surface of a last having, in conibination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along a path approximately Parallel to the portions of the sole M,,Mber supported by the tread surface of the last, means including upper tensioning TOlls for imparting a stretch to the upper and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upper and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, and I a welt guide secured to one end of the @oll supporting stud and a lug on the stud for h6lding the edge of the welt being sewed in position. LEONARD S. CURTIN. EDWARD W. KOLOSKE.

2 2 7 2 6 5 , @ Pitexited! Feb. 1942, Of@ u Z 272,065 SHOE LASTING ,&@ND WELT]ING @dwad@ W., Koloske, mnwai@@6e, Wis-,: @na,uon,-aid @ s. iburiin,--l'Belniont, 'Mass., assignors: @Uniied Shoe Mac hi nery ibok,@oraiioii, Flem@pgo f N6* ersPY, ton, N.@ j Apl)licat ti@,March 25.1941@ S6riil:N,D. 385 124;@ 10 11 ClAiin . (Cl@ 12 -e of@ t@ @iid havilig upper, The present inventio@ relbtes,io i@nprovements aion@ @'the @reak li@ be iii machines. fbr lb,:3tii@g atid': getihg,, shoes' and ien,.@ibiiin@ mem rs f(jr, impar ing a stretch - tp 6lid@@ @ mids6l6 or-inn6rsol6 @shoet at@ a nathiiie@ -'bf -.the @tyi)@ dis- the more 1 paiticularly to I th -he lasi: t@: @ cause - e upper . an closed:@'in U. S. Leiters' Patent ]@ol.' 2,246,993, dist@n cel fioni t ori@ of, jarxieg t @@t g@@e t,he - f side 6f thO granted -june@ 24, 1941, on an ap@licati h ee o tt eadt sur ace, P. Fredericksen@ in which the outtiirfted marginal b reak @line on the last, -Of f t' ned to thd d the point oi irortions: of- @a;:shoe @upper are faste welt to)#gr s sue margiii@l p6rtio@iis of a thiii iin6hanneled'irildf6rmi ng devices at r or canvas s]2Leet befoke @n@- outei@,gole is port ed agailast th6 @cti6@ @ol6 laye attached to, c6mplete the shoe. 10 devi ces by t]@e gaping por in the@:machine of the Fredericks,eli patent a dra* n, togetiie@i @viih th6 hoe uijp'6r is iasted and s iin@ on @the last @t6 ih(@ tr ewii to-,E@ thin, S channeled mids @heet'. of wov6n .@dxtiii@ by@,tlie puli @oil the stii@@6@ in8e@r-ied. @U@ ole or a material mounted on the tread surf a bf la after:d esdiibed; the stitch fokriiirig device ce a @ st. @i8t oi a,neodle at,'one side 6f the work The seam is inserted at a distarice from th6 bre@k 15 line formed b3@ the me d s@ur-@ eting @fdo@ind trea 16c)pe @ at th@ o@po@ite sid6; the welt @ b@t,@d by- th,b ieiigi6ne@@iip@6r e@ain@t the faces of the@-Ilast, th6 si)acing 6f the-, seam from of @hd nebdle a@ it firs! S aid lir ie being determined bk tl@e positiori in which the sh6e@is'@preieiited to the ma6hine by prol@eii@ located with @r6lEition @to th@ operat6r during se@wing. With tllis -ita@hilie, 20, on the lAst'-bef6r6--se,@iii@, th@ arbuild" the, lbre@k@ iii@e -into a po f per o a graiii sur ace@ in @bnta6t,with the-up t tion aftet sewi:nk.@vh6t6'thb form 8, an ani,@iilar flan'ge,@' ag w6l @.@,..The 66mi@le@i@d seai-ri iiv6i@bly i@ a@@e@Lr@iice- wit s6@ m ins@ri@d-by'a curved t@6.@ @use of a eled insoie I ordinarily required for,i @:of' Wori. "W ith-a curved needl'e - .,,e ma cl@lile, tho stit6l @es-, ar6 @@-t iriio th6 r@a@eiia s 6@6i@te(i u@on ih@@ witii'. sttaight,, nep , e ma m@ or'e-' d'eeply @"chiii@,@i@ariiCU16,: hing,a r l @ T @ v l @ e j @ a i t @ 6 - w e l t ' W i t h the hiAcl@iri-Ei 6i the pr6s6nt,iiiVdiition,.ih6-iiiie,6fstitch@s is d6ile6tet[ oi,i,i of the 6f the ri66di6 a@ they lare'ti@ink tiihtien6ci @o t@blt a.(f6ep @se@iii m i,6siilt@ tvith ariy'. o.f, the , ad@@iii@g e from e use of- a curve'd n6edl@ mae ne'. To in @ro per @lo batio ri'of tiib ;@el t. in iiiepbrtion of a@ *elt secured to the @ uiyper with @ the 4o 6hine, t]@e PiDsition of the v7eii guide i@@iiiado ad.@ j -stable and as, iii the - m@chiri6 .'cii,@t]@'e patent rei@rred@t @), @t@@'u@per iensiom':n'g meE@ - -co ns mprises kii@ping@ r6lis, one o f wi@ich.'rotates o,n a @st;u, carrying the Welt guide @t'6ne end.- Othe r featu:r6@ of.the inventibn consis o cer; @ biriations an toli @ iio@el con@tructions, c6rill d-ar rai@gements of part-s hei@eiri@fter 'de@eribed--'6,@a@ c a- t 4es of w@Acil will bO'-apI imed, the, advan a p@rent t 6th6@eskill6din.thea-r@fromthe@@folo ing Aiid the acoompanying drawings,-, in which Fig. i -is a -view irt side @levati6i@, partly brok:@n iii, @6ctibn, of t'he'operatitig-'. de@. . vices of' al'i@Et@iing-@:@nd-"@6@ving fiia6iiiiie 6iiibody@'. ihg- the'featiiie@ of . tli6,@ pre,se'n,t-'i@i@vei@ti6ii; pig., 2 f@'.thOuppe@ @eii t s i b @ , the pp,@;ition of.the seain 6onnecting@ tho iii)p@t and insole may be@ r6gulated b@ the operator 'm @@a marmei- not po-ssible where a heavy c@armeled i@sble is employed; @ and othei ' ad@antages @ ieswt both iii connection with the siibse@ii6nt st6ps oi --5 m@nufactureaiidwiththe:c mp!6te(ishoe. After 9, sewing the shoe on t@ti6- machine of, th6 patent, the outsole of the shoe is most 6onvenientl@ - at.@ tached'by. cem@ntin@ or by through-andthroiidh - fastenings, tiie exp6sed portions of .)@hibh iipp6@r @@ 6 on@ the out@ole and inside @the @ com@leted shoe. It is an object of @tlie pre@ent inv6ntidn to im@ prove the oper6,tiori of the' machine @ disclosed in the patent so that@'a shoe ha@ing a midsoi6 eb @mP(5sed of a thin unchanneled@@heet or layer of s5 woven material.niay be completed by 6,ttachiiig@@@@@ an outsole a@cordiii ' t@o tlie, usiial Goddyear g metl@od in which the projecting marg@inal la6r-, tioris of the oiitsole ar6 se@ved to the margirial stitches appearing entirely outside th6 @ho@@. Another object of th6 iiivention is tb provide a shoe lasting and sewing ma , chine l@ith a-- ig@@ide for directing a welt strip @intb such, relation with the upper of :a shoe and-,viith a twri dn6ha'n- 45 t ih& neled sheet a's, midsc@le or iiiii6r8oie tha 61t will be drawn togeth6r witli th6 uppek, around' th e break lin6, of 2@ last which.suLPPorts the. upper and @sllieet tlib locatioi@ 6f the, sealm an'd v7elt connectin6. the parts being fed@lated b@ the p6si,- 50 tion @iii which the shoe@ i@ presented, to the: maduring sewing. With these and I other objects in vie,w, thii present iiivention co,nt6mplbLte@ thO p-rovision ih@ chin P,: @hoe lasting and seAii@@@ @iii@ e; ooerati-ng 55@ is -a: view: in': fro'nt e ii@Ei W

2 2,272,065 ing rolls and stitch fornling devices of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1, indicating a portion of a shoe being operated upon partially in section; Fig. 3 is a detail view of one end of a tensioning roll supporting stud in the machine; Mg. 4 is a detail sectional v4,ew illustrating the manner of operation of the machine taken somewhat in advance of the sewing point; and Fig. 5 is a similar view illustrating the positions of the parts in a shoe after being sewn. The illustrated machine operates to sew a shoe upper in lasted relation with a thin unchanneled sheet of caiivas material mounted on the tread surface of the last on which the 8hoe is constructed, together with one edge of a welt, in such a way that the resulting shoe,has an appearance similar to that of a shoe manufactured according to accepted Goodyear welt shoe making pi-actices. The corner portion of a last used in the construction of a shoe is indicated at 2 in Fig. @@ an upper including the lining at 4, a midsole member in the form of a canvas sheet to which the upper is lasted at 6 and a welt at 8. The canvas sheet is unchanneled and not preformed in any way, being cemedted or tacked to-tlhe bottom or tread sluface 10 on the last with flexible marginal portions extending loosely beyond the edges of a slightly beveled inner sole 12 also mounted on the tread surface of tl-le last beneath the canvas sheet. Before the lasting and sewing operations, the upper and lining also are temporarily secured in place, leaving the marginal por ' tions extending free alon.- a break line 14 of the last fornied by the angle between the upper supporting or side surface 16 and the tread surface 10 of the last. As thus far described, the construction of the shoe is similar to that disclosed in the patent above identified. In order to construct a shoe, the outsole of which may be attached in a manner similar to Goodyear shoe making practices in the machine of the present invention, the welt 8 is positioned so as to be included in the seam 18 connecting the upper and canvas sheet 6 in such a way that it is drawn from a position.where it is supported at the side of the last, as indicated in Mg. 41 around the bree-k line ont6 the tread surface of the last, together with tb-e upper, by the pull of the stitches, a,,; @n Fig. 5. To obtain this result, the position assumed by the free edge of the welt as it is led towards the sewing point in the ma6hine is at an acute angle with the upper and the edge of the welt through which the seam passes is supported 'by the upper against the action of the stitch forming devices in the ma,chine (see Fig. 4). When supported in this manner, the pull of the stitches inserted prbduces an angular flange on the upper extending from the tread surface bf the last, and lying against the edge of the welt being sewn, the grain surface on the welt lying parallel to the tread surface of the last so that the free edge of the welt may be sewed to the projecting marginal portion of an outsole fitted to the shoe. TI-ie extending flange along the margin of the upper may be trimmed in the usual way before the outsole is fitted in place and the stitches, of the seam 18 Will appear to be similar to those inserted by a Goodyear inseam sewing machine. The ihustrated lasting and sewing machine is of the type disclosed in U. S. Letters Patent to Leveque No. 1,864,510 of June 21, 1932, except for the reduction in thickness and in width of tli ' e work support, according to the construction the provision of a guide 20 for the welt 8. Briefly, the machine is provided with a pair of upper tensioning rolls 22 and 24 acting with a continuous bite on the upper and I canvas sheet or sole member a short distance from the break line 14 of the last to draw the marginal portions of the upper into conforming relation with the side surfaces of the last and to cause the upper and sheet to gape along the tread surface of the 10 last in advance of the sewing point. The roll 22 is rotatably supported on a stud 26 having an enlargement at its forward end and is yieldingly pressed by a spring 28 towards the roll 24 to grip the parts operated upon. The stitch forming 15 devices include a straight eye pointed needle 30 and a looper 32 mounted to rotate concentrically with the axis of rotation of the roll 24, the shoe being supported in a position to cau@,e the needle to operate in a path approximately parallel to 20 the tread surface IO on the last. The welt :guide 20 is adjustably mounted on the erilargement at the free end of the stud 26, which enlargement has a,lug portion for supporting a block 34 having a vertical slot 35 through 25 which a clamp screw 36 passes into the lug on the enlariement. the welt guide which is formed fr(M an angularly bent plate is secured at one end by a screw 38 passing @through a slot in the welt guide plate and into threaded en30 gagement with the block 34. The other end of the welt guide plate i . s provided with a pair of side flanges between which is adjustably clamped a welt edge engaging member 40 arranged to overlie the flesh surface of the welt, a shoulder 35 42 being formed to en.-age the edge of the welt and locate it within I the guide. Along its central portion, the plate curves inwardly past the edge of the eniargem6nt on the Stud 26 and enters a circular recess 43 in the feed roll 22. As a 4o means for holding the eclge of the welt being sewed in position, the 6nlarg6ment at the end of the stud has a for . wardly i@rojecting lug 44 which overlies the edge of the welt and also a-ssists in guiding I the needle as it enters the work. 43 The welt 8, as it passes through: the guide, is directed at an acute @ingle with relation to the portion of the upper which conforms with the @ide siirface of the last and with the needle path indicated by the dot-'dash lines 46 (Fig. 4), so 5( thqt the needle will enter A stitch receiving groove 47 of the usual form albng the edge of the welt and will, emerge at or adjacent to the edge surface of the @velt which is supported against the needle thrust, in part by the portion of the 55 upper confoiming @vith the side 16 of the last and in part by the tensioned portion of the upper which gapes away -from, the@ last. After the needle has perietiated the welt, the upper and the. canvas sheet, the loop f6rmed by the needle 60 is transferred to the looper 32 and the needle retracted., During the retracting stroke of the needle, the stitch being formed is set. As each @stitch is@set, the pull on the 'uhread exerted by- the stitch f6riiiin@ devices including 65 the looper 32 causes the welt, together with the up@er, to be drawn a'round the break line of the last and onto the. tread sur'face 6f the last, the grain'surfac6 of the welt being brought into contact with that portion of the upper which is car70 ried around the break line oii the last. Since the ileedle is disengaged from the work, the work is no longer reinforced by the needle. The welt, in being drawn around the'last break line, then causes the thread of the stitch. Veing formed discl,osed in the Frederickson patent, and fOr 75 to -be deflected so that the exp6@ed por@tion of