[1]Patented Oci. 26, 1943 2 9 3 3 2 9 6 8 9 UNITED STATES PATENT :OFFICE 21332,689 GARMENT SIZATG A-NTD SHAP]ING FORM John W. Bell and Alfred F. n,,S-,,ttle, Wash.. 'L2rst assignors of on@:-third t. Ch Seattle, Vlash. Garmel-ii,s, when cleaned, are subjected to processes which cause them to shrink, particularly when made of certain materials. Cleaners attempt to bring such garments back to theii7 ori.-inal size and dimensions in all respe@3ts, but 5 have usually employed fiat forms or tables for measurement 'and stretching bf the garments, flatwise. The human form, however, is a threedimensional figure, and fla@twise measurements and stretching do not accurately i7eproduce -the 10 human figure nor make the garment conform therc-to. The garment may be unduly stretched I : in certain regions and not sufficiently stretched in other regions, and the result is that it fails to fit the figure properly, and mey be@damaged by 15 the abnormal stresses. Forms have been proposed heretofore that act iii the nature of three-dimensional figures, adjustable in various directions and in va,rious zones correspondingly to the's-ize variations iii 20 such zones of the hum@n figure, and correspqndin g to the variations in size and shape of differ" ent human @ figures. @ such figures have been a gr6.at improvement, but because they@@are expensi.ve, and because a great@number of dressds 25 mlist be handled by the cleaner in a day's tim 0 such figures have not proven altogether e.conol-.@ical in use because of the time required and the - other difficulties attendant upon adjustment in the -@,arious respects required to fit different fig- @ici ures. Each dress fitted upon such@ a flgure requires individual adjustment to fiti that particular dress, and unless@ such adjustments,@ as to height and spa--Ing of the different zones such as the shoulders, bus'@, waist, Mps and, hem,, and '.5 as to measurements in the severwi zones,@ can be made quickly and yet accurately, so much time is cc-nsumed that a siiigle fl.gure haiidle the volume required, and@for the cleaner to acquire 'odditional fi.@ures increases the cost to a 40 point : where@ the use of such @ figures becornes uneconomical. The primary object of the present : invention is to produce a three-dimensional figure of the general natiire indicated, capable of adjustment 4r) as to height and as to spacing of the various cl,-@- cumferei,itial zones, and capable of adjustmen@c in 6ach zone to fit the variations of human fgures and preferably adjustable i7-i such zones in the dire-Itions and by.the amounts which corre- 59 E-,pond to human size vari.ations in the respective zor.@-s, and furthermore to provide such a figure in vjhi-.h the ad,iustments are quickly and.cbnveniently made, l@referably@ by power means. Likeivise@ it is an object to provide such a figure @55 H. fierce, AppL-'eation Sep-tember 21, 19-19, Serial No. 357,7 so clay"ms. (cl. 223-70) which is riechp@nically simple@ therefore relatively inexpensive, and rugged, and @easy to operate. Preferably also, according to this invention, such adjustments are made by controls which are operable frorq a remote point externally of the fi,-ure@ Thereby, in large measure, they r-qay be niade without reaching within the form, and consequently may be niade after a dress has been applied to the collop-qed forr-q, for in the collbpsed co-ndition of the form the dress is most ea@ily fitted upbn it, <)r taken f.roin it. With a dr(,--ss@ upon the form, the form may be expanded to the proper sizei accomplishing the str&.ching of the dress in all directions by equal or equivalent amoun s atid without undue strain in any given t I @ regi6n, and after the dress is finished the form inay be collarsed:to an extent that makeg removal of@the.dreqs simple, with no rnulss@ng. n, obip t e indicator means It is also a -c to provid whch are in . depehd6nt of but conne I cted for rqovement with the expanders . at the several zone@ wl-iich will in dicate at a glance to tlae operatbr the exact circumferential dimension at such zone, while the adjustment of the I form is proceedingi It'is a particular object to provide convenient pbwer-operated mechanism for accomphshing the @,Vertical adjustment of the form for height azid @for @ spacing between the several zones, a-nd to provide convenient means for liniiting and accomplishing this vertical adjustment. I As has been suggested, such a figure is conveniently made up of'several individual zonal 'e,,panders corresponding, f6r example, to the shoulders, bust, waist, and hips bf a@human figure which exponders will cooperate in gelleral o define @the outline:or contou r of the human fis,-ur6, but it is pref I erred that the remainder of the fip,,ure (a,nd this Is particularly @important with relation -to tlie'skirt portion), be filled i,n by longitudinals connecting the various zonal bxpanders. Preferably single flexible Ion-gitudinals extend from the lowermost, or hern expan.der, @o@the uppermost or shoulder expander, being engaged by the intervening expanders. . However, since adjustment must be made as to height and as to spacing b--tween individiial expanders, @and as to circumference at each expander, and siiice these varlous adjustments will require@ diff.er,ent effective lengths of the longitudinals, we prefer that there be employed take-up @ means, such as may be associated with each individual, longitudinal, by- means of which the individual
[2]2,332,689 longitudinals may be maintained properly taut and in the proper contour of the figure. Since such a fotm must inevitably be as tall as the distance from the hem to the shoulder of a dress which will fit any given person, and might be 5 difficult to fit a dress upon because of its height, especially if elevated upon a pedestal, or if always of maximum height, it is an object to construct the form ift a manner which requires but a minimum of elevation above the floor and 10 which permits its ready collapse verticall@ to a size enabling an operator, standing upon the floor alongside the forri, readily' to fit @a dress upon it or to remove a dress fram- it@ With these and other objects, as will appear 15 hereafter, the invention comprises those principles best illustrated by way of example in the accompanying embodiment, as shown in the drawings, and as hereafter explained, and as will be more particularly defined by the cla"ms. It 20 will be understood t'@liat the form illtistrat6d is purely 3@epresentb@ti,@e:and illustrative, and that the invention is not restricted thereto other than as is made clear in thi8 @peci-.qeatiori arid in the claims. 25 re I - a ge ation of I the invention VigLi is nera-I elev As a whole" part@ boing brgken'away or omitted for -clearer illustration df the @geiieral principles. Vigiire 2 is in geli6@bl 6, section, the viewpoint b6ing at @96- to that of -Figure I illustro@ting@ the 0 hgure as a whole. ,Pigure 3 is a plaii view'of the con'Lrol stand, and Mgure 4 1 is in patt@an elevatioii and in part a E@ectidn throii,-h an ihdivi-dual 60ritrol@valv6. Figtires 5 to 9 inclu@ive perteiin tb the should er 6k@patider and the assbciated ihdidat(ir unit, -the 1;@ttor of thich is c@6rhmon -to all th& expanders. Mgure 5 is in part dri el6vAtion afid in liart :a sectioh through tliis @ tipl)effhost unit;; Figur6 6 is in part 6, @f@ont@ eleva@tibii and iii, part a section 40 throiigh ihe s@me; @ligur6 7 f@ a tra;nsverse se6tion through a ii@dividubl iiidiogtbr; Figure 8 is @a se6tion, stibstantially oti the line B-L:S of Figure 6; aiid'Figiite 9 is a'detoil se@ction -Stibstaritially on the Iiiie 9---O of Figiite 6i .15 Figures 10 to 13 inclusive pertaiii prima,rily. to the bust ekp'andet, Although Figure 12 illustrates a d6te@ I il c6fnmoli to most of the expanders. Figure 10 fs iii @part on oleveition and in idatt -a hori2biital section through the bust expiinder; Figure 11 is e@ front 6levation with:parts broken away to show the i-nteri6i coristruction thereof; Figure 12 is a detail, partly @in seetion,.of meE6ns to limit or determihe the vertical adjustment@of, the ex@pailder;.Pigure 13 i8 in@general a section oi-i the 5 line 13@13 of Figure 10. l,ligure 14 is a view 8imilar to Figure 12, illustrating a different type of means to de.termine the vertical adjustment or spacing of the exp,,tp-d.ers. Mgure -15 to 18 pertain primarily to the ivaist f,() expander. Figure 15 is a,view similar to Fi.,ure 10" F-igure 16 is a view similar to:Figure 11, and Figures 17 and 18 are respectively vertidal and horizontal s,-ctions of details of the expaiider and of its irelationship resped.tively, to the longitudi- (;3 na . Is @nd to the domioleiiiental transverse expander elerrients. F-igures 19 and 20.@pertp-in primaril-Y to the hip expander. Figilr- 19 is a view similar to FigLires io ahd 15, and Figilre 20 is o,'vif-,w simila@ to Fig- 0 ures 11 and 16. Fi,-ures 21 and 22 pertain primari-ly to the hem expander, Figtire 21 being a view @similgr to Figur . es 10, 15 and 19, and Figure 22 being a view similar to Mgu'res If., 16, and 20@ Figure 23 is a detail of the c.arding tape employed to engage and hold down the hem, which is assbciated with the hem holder and expander. The flgure, as has been indicated, is generally of human shape. This is not to be understobd as requiring it to have arms and legs, but more strictly: s,,leaking it conforms to the shape 6f garment's@, which, are w6rn -by humaiis- o,r 'which are driiped upon the human figure. 'Since the difficulties mentionled above are met with primarily in connection with women's clothes, the figure conforms primarily to the shape of women's clothes, and the @lower portions have more or less the, 6ontour@ of a woman's skirt. Als6, :since clothes ar6'iisu-all@ worn with more or le@-s 16oseness, the figure@ may be so expanded that it does not represent the actual human figure . of the wearer, btit rather the expa,,ided size of the clothes which fit loosely iipon tlaat human fl.@tire. It is this meaning which in this specification is to be iindor@tood when- the figu-re isdescribe.d@ as "geriti7ally@of human shape." Indeed, such@fi,-uresmaS7 b6 employed With skirts -only, and in such ca@cb @lt@ is tiot outside the ir-tended meaning if the, parts:above thO waist'be omitted. In@ its general charaotetistics: the figure@ coinpri8osEt'shoulder expander S, a bust expander:B,. a Wai8t expander W, a hip expaiider H, and a hold-dowri ri-ng or heni expander RI dispose.d one; ab I (jve' gnother giid -suitably supported and pre-; vented frbih rotating r6lative to one another. At a,6oriVeiiiont poiiit, pref6rably in the positioii 'coril-e"spofiding fo the head:of such a flgurei there is m'6u.-nted an indicator I. Thb@, @silripoft; i8" fbrined of several individual parts, one of which is associated -w-ith,ewch of the exl)anders,'@whii3h are relatively niovable"vei tically,;-edriVenieiitly, and@.preferably, the arringeffen't7ldomprfs76s sever;al telescopingly: connected, a;nd" 8lidable tubulat-elernents with a power ja;cl-.@ prefetably a fluid-@P!76sgur6 operated Jack, Within@ thi@ fel&scoljitig tiibulAr assembly, whereby@ th6 same -mEi@@ 'be eol-19,P@ed 'd6wnwardly. to a 'diegired exteiit,,' bt!.Projected-vertically to, a @desired maxi-@ M -Ore rbvided to diatermine or . limit LIM. Meang @p of:'6iibhi ex]@aiider from adia@en exP'a'rid6rs, @@rid hdride:the total height@ of tht'flgure@@. R61a@tiVo- rotation of: the expgndersi about -the suijp0rt, @is suitably'prevented. Prefetably each expander is made up primarily of plgtes'wlhi6h define- the @princi@al cont6urs at: eelch reslie0tive zone, @that is, -the poititg of g re.atestleonvexity@and greatest size variations@in the human flgute, td: whi ch ma@ be connected@:for corresponding mdvement, secondary circumferefitial members completing the c ircuniferential contour at each such zone. The expan,sion in each zone:may be @atcomplished by sii,nile@r. je@ck' means-@forming part-@of or.incorporated Witl.iin thee@xpander. Such iack means are, arrang6d to:react from the.central@,support or@from.a@p art of its expander which is sedured to @@th6@ ceritriil suijport,:@and.the,jacks are directed.tol.acizo-ynplish movemeiit of the priinary contour-forming elemen4.s, each in its respe6tive zone, in a direction and by am6unts which correspond.to the directions and amount of @ size variatiori in @ human figures. I-lowever, it, is @ not to be understood @ as an:.essential element i(f the ihvention, in certaiii respect,8;that.the@expansion in any given,zope@ be in, the direction@.ofthe principal vbLriatioris..Of. human@ sizes in'stch zones,; for,while'this@is, preferable, :even without this i.provision@ the, @forra @is useful if- the circumfereritial extent b @'var'@ed,: providing'@the 'direction of'expansion.shall',@ot
[3]depart too greatly froiii the dire6ti6.n of expan, sion of hurnan figures in such zones. Since the expanders incorporate the principal points at which human figures bulge,.such as the bust and hips, the figure might be formed only 5 by these expanders, but it is pieferred tli@@ the spaces between the si@ expanders, v rtically, be fflled in all around t.@ie fi.-aui@. @'Am'ong other reasons this is desirable to,p@everit dr,@@se@ froni sagging within t.qe form, aiid possib@ly c ,ontactin-- 10 parts of the mechanism.@ At the s@lme tim6, the actual surface areg, contactinp,, the dress must be slight, to impede by the minimuril the access'to P .ind assage through the dress of air blown within it. Accordingly it is preferred t@@t n@r@D,@ irdi- 15 vidual longitlidinals or fl6xi'ral6 mc-tal tapes be e7nployed, extending from the hem e:@pander R through the various expanders in 0-der-the h-@P expa,ider II, the waist expander WI the bust exuander B, ' and UP to a connectio-n witli the 20 shoulder eypander S. For reasot-is which havp been poinf@ed out these longitudinal@s.are pr6vid,, \Vith tak-e-up mechanism, preferablv i@dividlial take-up device's for each longitudinal, so that thel7 may be kept tgut and in the proper contour bf 9-5 the figure as variations occur, due to verticol ial e),,i3an adii,istment or circumferent Si 7i. To the individual exi@anders are conriected indicatin.@ devices which are: not affected by vert,icai adjustrinerit, but which are sensitive to in- 30 creo,se in cizeumferential exte,@it. These indicators are preferab-ly. groiiped 'all, in @otle place, a,s fqr insto@nce at tl-ie head pc>rtio7i of the firure so that the operator has constantly before him an indicati@Dn of the 1:)recise measlixement o@ @ize 35 of the L9gure at tl-ie zone where@ he is accomplishing a-p- 6,djustment@ and v7lll not f,.iil to exnand tl-le e,,,i-)ander sufficientlxr, nor will he un1,-n-,wingly expand it top greatly. Likewise it is our intention to piovide means 4o which a-re associated Witl-a:the hem exppnder R to@ store and make available,' as, the expander expa nds and coiitracts cardi--n tape, -,@liicii may 9 bp-, engaged with the he--- of: the dress to hdld it down upon the forr@i" enabling proper adjust- 4;5 iment to the correct lengt,h. B@r reagon of the arrangement of this cardirg tape relatiV6 to -the remainder of the form, and by reason 6f the collapsibility of the f6rm@ particularly v6rtically, the dress may be automatically disengoged from 50 ttl(, cordilig@tape. It is also oLii@ intention to brovide, ill gssocia,01'1 with s@dch a figiire, means to'supply@steam or air, whether warin or of r6om teippere@ure, o,nd-therebv '@o a.,,com sh various prdcesses in cotinection with the cleatiina or dr3ri-ng of a dress which is - Lipon the form. Th-- @l,,ttter provisi I oiis, however@ are suitable for iise v,7tth various types of f6rms, and are not consid6red part of tl,:ii-- present irivention, which dea2ls rather -with the 0 form per se. Since it is rnore 6onvenient: ai.Ld considerably q-Liieker to accomplish adjustments in the various zones, or for height,:from-'a point outs,@'de the figlire than from a point inside@ we prgvide a 65 control stand adjacent the:figure@@but alongside thereof, where the operator may staryd and accomplish all the necessary adjiistrrients, or@@subr6f, while at the so,me stantially all thee -time observing the measuremed-ts of the figure at the 70 indicator I. Since the adjusttrents are p@efern@bly all accomplished by Power means, such as fluidoperated ibcks, this is@ very readily accomplished by mounting the control valves for these jacks. in a control s@.- and 6-utside'the figure, -'a:nd by con- 75 npoting them to ihe jacks within the figure by any convemeiit@type of .6ondults, extending upwardly within the figure. The centr@l @su@p6rt, in the form shown is thade up of telescopingly connected tubes. I 8, I 1, 12, and 13, arising out of a surrouiicling tubular stem 14. Each such tubular section of the central support carries a spider, including a sleeve at its -opper end, desi@nated@ .15s,,15b" 15v@, 15h and 16, df which all but ihe lotter constitlte r I 6action points which are in effect part of the -,,esDe6ti@e @ey-,oanders S, B, W, and H. The hem expander P. has a further reaction point 15r, ge whi@henge@ saboutthettibef4. V Ithin the assembl thus formed, and constiy tuting in the @ggregate the central upright support, is a jack, which cot-lvenieiitly takes the f6rrii Gf a jack cylinder 17 and a piston or plunger I see FiEure Th6 stem 18 of the pitinger i@i6j6ct@ u@wa@dly through the upper end of the cylind,@r 17. to engage thLmeir-ber 15s of the shoulder.expander. The plunger I has an a-ppreciable roiige @@f adju@tmen-t, su:Mcient to C61lap@e the forrn to any, de,sired minimiim extent, and to project it upwardly to any desired height. By pushing upwardly o . n th@ e-,@pander S each ex ander in succession m5ty be droi@7n u@wardly P if means are prck@ided to tie iogether the sucpessive expaiiders. This end is aecomplish(,d, atid relative rotatiot-i of the expop-ders about the axis of the jack cylin-der 17 is accomplished by mechI anism s,uclh as that which will now be -described. As@ is best shown iri Figiires 2, 12, and 14, a gaug,e stick 2 is carried by t-he uprbrmost e@,,,palider sl@eve 15s.: to which it is secured (spe al,.o Figure 8), and @r.L@nsthroup,,h guides in each sue6essive etkpander sleevb. This gsuge stick is provided,v,,i-p@- s@aced holes 26, wi-thi.Ti which Pre e@iiga-d6able lockipg dogs carried by each expander below the uppermost, and by' the sleeve 16. At, the bust 6XDander is a lo@cking dog l I b, P-t the w,@iist expander a do- 2 1 w and at the hip expander The @ddg 2 1 ,c, carried by the sleeve I 6, so-mewhat dif-ferently oi3erated. If tlie gaiige stick ? as thiis arranged is. excessively lopg and if it thereby tends to prevent vertical col!adsp of the flgllre to the required extent, it may be divided intb tv@o silch gauge stick.91 one f<)r the uppe@ part.and olb for the lower part Gf th(i figilie. Siiiee.cert@in of 'ihe details of constrilr-,tion have b--en oniitted to avoid obscuring the showing in Figures I aiid 2 the construction of the do ' -s and'the@manner@of tiieir operation may be bee@t under,stood by refe@-ence to Fig@r6 12. it Will be seet-l that@ ihe@ dog @2 lb is 13ivoted 'at 2 2 to a @racket, I Uy'cairied by @he @@leeve I 1,,b@ and that a 23 extendin-g @betwp_en, 'the bracket and the lt6 pa@s across a center, ancl therefore holds'the dog either in tie fvll-line engaged pa@itioii br in the'dash-line di ngaged position. .se Vertical adjUStr qent may be accompl-shed by enetg4zina,@ the jack 1, 17 to move the L-agure 'LiDwardly un,'il the correct o@r desired spi@,cing is obtained between th@ expn@nder S and the expander B, whereupon the dog 2 1 b@ is thrown@ by hand into the proper b-ole 20 of the gauge st--.'ck 2@ This locl@:s togethe@r the ex--@,)anders S I .tiid 'B, and (I-e-iiies their spacing. In similar fashion the tei@Tn I spacing b--tween ti-ie expaiaders B and WI alid between the expaliders W P.P-d H, @and fj,,,.ially between the ey anders H @nd @P@, ma b P y e determi,@ied and fixed in the same iva The last mentioned y svacing, how6ver,, is coilveniently a;Ccomplished by c-onn'eciing a li'lik 2 4,:connected to an arm 2 1 y
[4]of- the:dog I x, throug@,i various linkage ai!range@ ments, indicated genciaIly'at,25, - to',a-'treg'dl@-26. at the operator's station. This. is, possible. with tliis particular dog for-. the i6@s6ii i@@t @th& it is -M sleei,e 1,61 whereon o@,iited does n6t move vertically. An alternative arrangement is shown in Flg@ ure 14 Nvlierein the dog 2 1 z is -similarly piv6ted, but i'@s disengaged position, shown in dot-@d ash lines, is blit sli@htly@ reynoved from its, engaged position, since the dog @s suitablyl,stopped. and iield in the disengaged pD,5itibn. The dog is pro., vided with a b.eel ? 1 V, pmitidned tb @be engaged.by a stop 27 which is carried -b@r.d slide 20., tbich slide likevnse supports a spying-held pin 29, engageable within the holes 20. The slide 28 may thus be previously positioned to determine the snacing between the several expanders, and then upon upward, movement of the form as a Whole-, and,of the gauge stick 2 with the,shoulder..expander S, the stop 27 for each.expander engages its dog 2 1 z; which is normally h@eld, in unlock d e positio,n, and throws the -latter into the locked position in engagement;with the proper hole ZQ@ in the latter position it is 'held by its. spring ?3,, This,permits re@ietting of the spa@cing,,I@etween p exp6nders, and automati[c fiking tliexeqf in ad2usted position as the forra is, adju@,ted upwardly. At the@operator's station, conveniently.collecte I - I @d in a sfand,O, are,a ser es of-@conttols includin g- @L control valve I 9@ for t]@e. jadk (,. 1,7 (fQr@(letaii @s'seQ' F.Igure 4). This jack may be operated by @cora7 pressed air or by a liquid under,pressu:re, the supply vrhereof is by means of a conduit 90 @ and y the return whereof is b means of a conduit 9L(. bther valves for jacks at each of the e xpandex s are also collected here, as Nvill be desc ribed.latf@r. The bust expander may be described as,typical of th6 principal expanders. The sleeve 10,, wl-iieh is secured at the upper end Of the tul)ular sectio,n I I of the support, rriay b@,, @Qops@derpd,pAr-t of the biyst expander, for it is the reactiOT1 PPi4t f-rom which theexi3ansion proce@eds. At, thE@ b@st zo-.ie differently- from other zgnes, the exparisiqn is largel@r for@vardly 4nd somewhat outwatdly iTi directign, and there is little or, no expansion reanvardly. The points of the greatest coiivexity, of course, are to the front, and therefore the expatider is simpiy gnd Conveniently formed priniarily by the bust plates 3b, shaped to define the breast contours. The remainder of the bust expander..is formed of a plate 3. lb at th6.@rear, which ri,iay,be connected dire6tly to a bracket 1- 5y,that constitutes:part of the sle6ve I Bb, and flexi'p!6, ancl e@,tensible elements@ such as,the spring'@like.baTIdS '@@'b whibh are.received and guided.in the,.plate @ I 3 1 b, and which extend thence around the sides at, least to a connection with the bust plates 3b. The bands 32b may be part -of the bust plates 3b or may.be secured thereto or qy,.te4d there@ 'c@ehind. Til,ey preferably Oo not (,xtend icros@ i@ e he ' @ '36.' but if defre,nt, betiveen t two bust -olate sired, similar bands, lq'@b may l@e i;@rovided, extending between the two bust p@ate@ and 6apabie of slidir.g relative to each a I s the bust exppncl er is ex-, anded or c(>ntracts. The expan . sion is ac@complished. by, m . pans of pneun'latid or hydraulic jacks generally designated 3.0b. Because of the small minimum size at the bust, and the possible large iraximum size the jgckg which accornplish the expansion at the bust are preferably dtiplex jacks. . I-IoWE@yei@, this i-s a detail which may vary in accordai,.ce with the e design and in accordance with tia range of expansioii and contraction at any gi@en zorle. 'It need. oxily be considered that such a jack includes a piston'34b slia@ble *ithin,a cylindet 35b, wl@ich is -supp,ort,ed from the bravicet 15 apd dii@.epted, in -the b,us.t exp.,ander, div6rgingly from the back 3 f.b. The, pi@ton rod or, stein 36b is prefe@a@ly secured directly.to- the bust pl@i6,,Zb. @ Fluid under pressur@e is supplied to the.two diverging jacks 30b from-an iiidividual supply conduit 3-7b exte@iorardly within the forrri froni ing up"v a eqntrol 10 valve 38b,,at the. contr6i stand 9. . Such a valve may resemble the Valve 19 illustra ed in Mgure 4, t exice@t that it is single acting.; 7 At other expanders the.arrangem,ent is sima4r. At @the -waist expandet, shown i:n Figures, 15, an@d i.5 16 tbe jacks 30w, mad up of @lie @ylin@@r@,35v@, e and pistons 34w, ar6 arranged-substantially','pakallpl (orie would sufficb ff it we're feasible io locate it -ceritrally) and P-roject the stems $Sw and the connedte@ wa@ist @late $w fo@wardly. Thereby 20 the bands 32w, are drawn somewh6t forwardly, and by their flexibility are,permitted to expand outwardly, as:: is t7dash li' shown in the do nes. The back p plate 31w is su port6d froin the@sle6ve I Uw, as @are the jacks 3 Ow. Fluid -uiider pressure 25 i s supplied from the conduit 37w b , wiiy of a y valve 38w. At the @hip expander the, situation. is substantially reversed with r@lation@@to.,the @itli6ti-on at , the bust expander, .,for here - .the -movable hip lates 3h are disp6sed at the. rear@ arid-.th@. ,o jacks 30h diverge rearwardly and outwarcl@y. Whereas in the @waist expa@nd@er the jacks are ori ly simplex, here i'n the hip eypander, as @in the I bust ex@ander the jacks are@n(>rmally duplex @buf@ reversed. The fixed plate 3 1 h 's, now located at 1;5 the., front instead of at the rear. The hem expander R is s ewhat different Om from the others in that the'.hem of,a, dress@is largely circular, and the ex)@ansipn@@:for variation of @size ar6 not materiall:y greater in 6ne direction t@-ian in anothe-r. It 'Is@'i3ossib]6. therefore to rrake the hem expander iZ With'ja6l@@ 3gr t'hat are radially di e t' d@if r. r c e rom the ring 15 There @is an a 'ariation @p ,preciabl,e extent of 'Possible v cumference,-h . bwever,,and thqrefore t]@e@e'l@c -ks 15 @re prefer ly,duplex. The circumferentia] parts of the hem expander are made,up of the i@t p es 3r, wl-iich are secured to the piston rods 36r -and of portions32r which are -slidable. relative to adjacent circumferential-sections, being in f-i6nt "(I of:the idiacent section at one side and behind the adjacent section at the other - side. Each such m6mber, 3r is@pyovided with a btorizonta-Iii disposed shoe br:sleev.e 30y, whic,h suppor s he member 3r:for sliding engagement along a guide 30x"wl-lich is parallel to the cylinder, 35r. - Pur@ ther reference will be 'made to the construction of tlae hem expander. The shoulder expander S is-in the nature@of, a composite unit, inasmuch @as the in(licatpr. I @is mounted directly thereupon @ and associated there with. The, jacks 30s,, comprising the. cylinders 5@ and @ the @ pistons 34s, are directed @ laierally outwardly and@ slightly dowiiwardly from @the, cen@ tral sup@ort,' the piston rods 36's pushing' outwardly telescopin@ shoulde'r pieces @3s, which are in part retractable beneath tli6 shoulder'forms Sx. Fluid is supplied to the jacks 30s by-the': conduit 37s.' In all instances thi3 jacks may be do-@ble-a'cting 70 if desired, l@Lit for'silliplificatioil it is pt@ferred that they be retract@ble b@ @prl,ngs 4s 4v@ @@te'- A c6nttol valve, such as the -@Valve 19 is sh6wxi in Pi 4 and this va gilre d@ubi6@acting, f6r 75 the@jack I 1-1 l@ pi@@iex@6bly a,@dou@le-actin-- --' k' ",g_-jac
[5]the sleeve I 5w. Received within . t@ie tube 5 1 w is a stem 52w, and the two are so formed (the stem being square, for instancei and received within a square socket) that t I he tube mav not rbtate relative to the stem; rather rotation 6f the tube 5 1 w e e:ffects rotation of the stem @52w@ y t.th@- two inav slicle relatively,@ axially of the tube. The tube is ur-,ed always to rotate in.a given direction by a torsion spring 53w, to tensio-n@a wire br cord 54w ii7h@-Ch is carried upon the spool 50w, and which is cotinected at its elids at .55w to the plate 3w. In th,@s ip-anner the wire 54w, the tube 5[w, and the -,tew52w partake of the e,@pansive or contractile rliovement of tiae waist expander W and sl3i,ings which are conce,aled also a similar@indicator.frbnl-the hem expander within th6 iiiechanism at 60, rn.aintain ea6h indiR, Ltit this is: liot so necessary since the hern vid,Lia l lo.ngitudinal taut, and because it is locited %v-ill nori-r@all@@be extended tb whatever circumclose to t.,,ie @o-Litside contour oi the-figure, by its tautnc-ss, and by its @i@gagemerit within the suc@erenc-- seems necessars,, without exact measureme-@it, and tb cbn'Lorm t , o the remainder of the 40 cessiv e expande--Ps, it is kept always in this proper garmer.t. i@To stem for luhe hem @xpander has contoLir, regardless of the lateral or eircumferbean sl@iovvn therefore@ Likewise as to the shoulentipl expansion on the one.hand, or, the vertid6r e@zpailder; the arrangenient is a little differ- cal exiiansion on the other hand. A s wh' k i i @ t , i c h eiit iri view of the fact that there is nb relative is placed upon the figure cannot drape or fall 45 witmn the figure, by reason of the.longitudin als @novemeii t vertically between the sboulder plate wbich are p 3s aiid the iiidicator I,,therefore the spool 50s is roperl y spaced, around th-, figure, and ri,ouiited dizectly upon a shaft 52s, Whifh is jourtheref ore cannot engage and be caught on no.r interf ere wit:.Li the interior p@rts of the form. naled in ihe composit-- shoulder and indicator unit. It will be noted that. the hem expander R does It rnay b6 seen, particularly in Figures 5, 61 71 50 not r'nove vertically, @and that: While the 'ceatral and @g, that the shaft@52s witlain the indicator I Part of each plate 3r, is secured to the outer elicl cari-ies a spbol 50,' which is connected, by an of the jack stem or rod $Or, the other parts either c-ndless cable 57S ond 'by way of suitable pull@eis, overli e oi underlie the side p6rtiois of the adjoining plates Sr. Suitable guides 3'p_ are provid6d ta a rq6vabl6 ii-idex or t)ointer 58s, which is slida- r - - );) to hold in the o-Liter ends of these@ flexible and ble Within a slot 50s within the indicator I. By : , @ Su itabl@ marldng the ex teri6r of the housing 5 som ewhat resilient plate@s 3r, aiid-'the reels 60 are cai,ried upon 't e underlying ends but not which encloses and supports the various indicators h l@pon the overlying ends of each plate 3r. Tb-is t.he indices 58s, 58b, 58io, aiid 58h, and any other is for the reason that, as inay b6 seen in Figure@- similar indicators, may shovr directly the size 60 21 and 22, and likewise in Fi.-ure @ 23 there is at the part-icular zone vihich corresponds to this associ ated with each such plate 32- a cardin tape index ieniber. Adjusti@ient may proceed aeconsis ting preferably of a fle.@ible metal plate 70, cordingly, expandillig br contracting the@ form at an ovei-lying heav@ @7ov6ii tape 7i, @nd ca'rding any given zo-@ie b:@ sui-t,-ble oporption of the valves finger s 7 mouiited in the tape 71. Thb, cardin.- 18, i-,ntil the' operaio@,' standing at the control 65 ta@e'i s preferably so f6@med that the fingeirs 7 st,,-nd 9 @ m- ay tell by I the, corresponding indicator are protected f 0 r in above by'a tape 7 2 6@0 t I he i7@,i,-asiiremen.t at tiae.correspo@,iding zone@ is of a tli@ickness stibstbntially coresponding to :the .As h@,.s been pointed out @lready, tl-le expanders length of the fingers @7. TI-i@@@e tapes are carried l,he,- @ase.i7es mav be suff,,cient to dei-ine the prin- upo@i th 6 plat6s 3r, o@s has 'beeii -indicated, @,,ind th cil)ai p-@i!-its or contburs of the figure, but pr6f er70 slide undernea tbei overlYi.-,lv ends of the adably the figure is c6mpleted.and iri particul@-r the joining plates. The cardink fi@gers ai,e n 6t bent r,,oiitoLi,es between the waist, hl:p and hem expandby, nor do they catch upon the overlying tape,.by ers q,-re filled in and defilied, by lbqgitudinals 6. reaso n of the protective tape T2. @The . latter is Prefer,@ibiy these @are.in the form of inextensible beveled off at its upper edge os indicated at 73 flexible.tape@, stieli as the stainless steel tapes 75. in Fi.- Ure 23, a-ria wbile the '(Iownwardly turneci b,hcl the other valves 38s, 1.8b, ete" nlay@be sirnilar that are employed for Iinear measurements. to the valve 19 excebt'as they ate f@orrrieci for o@- There i@,,of course, no reason for measuring. with eration in a singl6l dl'iecti6ii oiily, and for ey@ha@ust. such t es ap , nor any reason why they ileed to be It is desire@ble that the operatbr h@ave an indisuffici ently stiff to be self-supporting @ to any cat@.on at all times @of the piecise size of the figure 5 extent . Preferably'they are of sufficierit length at any given zoni@, and that all such indicati6iis be to extend continuously from the hem expander R col lected at the iridicator 1. Ii ever, because t6 the shoulder exbander S @by way of each of the the expanders are located op-e:ab6ve the otl-ier, i-ntermedi;@ ' te expanders, following the contours of and are adjustable vertically with relation to one the fig@ ure. I. Such tapes 6 are co,,,Iveniently wound anotlier, yet e-,'@Dan(i later@lly and circumferen10 :UPO N take-up 60 (see Figure's 21 and 22) tially, it is nee6s@ary tO D'rovid6 a flexible connec- 'Which are carried by the he@n expa@,ide'r R, and tio.-i between the indicator T @ anci each i--qdividual. @vhich exl@,end thetce upwardly'by way . of the zonal expander. iliterinediate exp@nders to a point of connertion In@F . igu I res 16 and 17 a reel 50w is sliow@-.il c4r- at the shoulder expander S. Such ppints Are ried upon a sleeve 5 1 w which is j ournaled witbin I indic-.ted iii lligures 6, 81 and 9, at 6 1. At the intermediate expailders these@tapes are suitably giiided s6 that the expariders miy slide lo -ngitudinally of the tapes as the f6rm is collapsed 6r I expandeo vertically, and so that the tapes may 20 slide r&lative to the.'expanders as stich movernent 'is required by latera expansion or c6ntract,on of the expanders. Su.ch sliding @connection is sho*n sorn,ewii@t in detail in Figure@ 13 and. 17. Tiie guiding arrangernent mqy be such tha@t the @p t, e slid,es . vertic%lly b6tween undetlying ears 62w, fbr instarice; p,ressed out olr see.ured.to the inner side'of an'ek'pan'der part, siich as the woist plate 3w,.or the't@pe rhay be sufficiEintISr,'flexl:ble transvetsely to burv6 . tb fli withii@ a gi iide 62b tl-.F- stein 52w, serves as a means to transmit I that@ ic? in . the bust plate Bb, a@ shown4 in Figure 13. At iiiotion to th6 indicator 1, to which the stem 52w the some time eircumferentioLIly extending-meniexl.ends through the in'berior. of the form. bers, such as 33b in Figu-re 13, dre slidable - within n stems 527z. extend iipwardly 'd6s 3 I-q silnilar fashio gui Sx@of Mgures 13 6r 17. rr-,rn the hi-P expander, and stems 52b extend By such an arrangem(,nt'the f w 'ch upv,Fa,-rd frorq the bl'st expander. There might be ,5 tal@e up the tap6@, and ' 1-ii
